Do added-traction devices actually work?

Dear Tom and Ray: Do those clamp-on or strap-on devices that go on your tires help with winter driving traction? Or do they just clamp on my wallet? — James

TOM: Sure, they can help. There are several different types of devices that can be used as temporary traction aids.

RAY: Consumer Reports tested a few of them, and the conclusion was that they can help, under certain situations, but they’re not very easy to put on.

TOM: They tested one product called the AutoSock, which is a mesh sock that you slip over each tire, and the mesh gives you additional traction in certain conditions.

RAY: They tested it on a snow-covered hill in Vermont and found that with the AutoSock, they could get their Honda Accord to the top of the hill, which they couldn’t do with just the all-season tires.

TOM: They also tested a set of temporary “tire chain-like” things called SnoBootz. With straps and Velcro, you attach these textured rubber pads to your tires, and the pads are supposed to dig into the snow and increase your grip.

RAY: Consumers found that in soft snow, SnoBootz were disappointing. They dug into the snow and got stuck, just like regular tires do. But on roads with packed snow, the SnoBootz were impressive and increased tire grip significantly.

TOM: The downside of these devices is that they’re fairly expensive (the AutoSock is $100 per pair of wheels, and the SnoBootz are $250 for four). While that’s not quite equal to the price of four good snow tires (which will help you more than anything), it is a significant investment.

RAY: They’re also both fairly difficult to install. So you should plan to get wet and cold when doing so.

TOM: And these are not things you can put on in the fall and take off in the spring. They’re temporary devices designed for low-speed, short-distance driving. Then they have to be removed.

RAY: There are other products and devices out there that we’re less familiar with, but if you’ve used any temporary traction devices — successfully or unsuccessfully — we invite you to tell us, and our other readers, about your experience. Make a note of the name of the product, and leave your comments at www.cartalk.com/snow.

TOM: And if you decide to toss one of these products in your trunk, consider also tossing in a waterproof jumpsuit and some hand-warmers.

What could cause car’s power brakes not to work?

Dear Tom and Ray: I love your show, and I desperately need your help. I am presently the “keeper” of my 25-year-old daughter’s 2004 Nissan Maxima. It has a serious problem, which she also has mentioned.

On any cold (34F or below) winter morning, the power brakes are nonexistent. Like, gone for the first five to seven minutes after starting the car. If you let the car warm up for 10 minutes, they’ll kick in. But if you try to head right out onto the road (which I have been crazy enough to try), you have virtually NO brakes. I can pump the brakes really hard and ease to a stop if going less than 1 mph — seriously. Mechanics have suggested everything from the transmission to the master cylinder to a brake line to a vacuum problem. Please help! I don’t want to be a kamikaze driver anymore! — Sharon

RAY: We don’t want you to be one either, Sharon. After all, we could be in the car in front of you.

TOM: The first thing I’d suspect would be the power-brake booster.

RAY: The power-brake booster is a device that uses a vacuum-operated diaphragm to multiply the pressure your foot applies to the brake pedal. It’s the “power” in power brakes.

TOM: If water has gotten inside the diaphragm, or into the line that runs to it, it could be freezing overnight and preventing the booster from working because the ice is blocking the flow of air.

RAY: Then, once the engine compartment heats up, the ice melts and the booster works normally.

TOM: We’re so used to having power brakes these days that when the “power” part fails, it feels like we have no brakes at all. And today’s heavier cars are much harder to stop without power brakes.

RAY: This should be pretty easy to diagnose, Sharon. One option is to simply put a booster in it. I think there’s at least an 86.75 percent chance that that will solve your problem.

TOM: Otherwise, you’ll have to leave the car overnight with your mechanic.

RAY: First thing in the morning, while the brakes are actually misbehaving, your mechanic can poke around and figure out exactly what’s going on.

TOM: In the meantime, stay off the road until your brakes are fully functioning. Remember, body work generally is a lot more expensive than power-brake boosters.

Send your comments or questions for Tom and Ray to: Car Talk Plaza, P.O. Box 3500 Harvard Square, Cambridge, MA 02238. Listen to them Saturdays at 10 a.m. on 91.3 FM or 88.5 FM. Visit them on the Internet at www.cartalk.com.

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