Mountains aside, there are accessible outdoor climbing opportunities in our area. In and around Springfield especially offers several options.
The challenge
Climbing is a great way to engage the body and the mind. In fact, “problem” is a term in bouldering to describe a route or sequence of moves. Often, what’s required to finish is counterintuitive to what your brain thinks is the next best move.
Formulating a path to the top is part of the appeal. Often there’s more than one way to go and sheer strength isn’t the determining factor.
But first, a couple of explanations of the different types of climbing available locally:
Free climbing is any climbing where any additional equipment is used only for safety, not to aid the climb or climber. That differentiates it from aided climbing, where devices are used to help pull or lift participants up the surface. That’s not to be confused with “free solo” climbing, where no equipment is used at all. With no plan B or failsafes in case of a fall, it’s especially dangerous.
Bouldering involves climbing on shorter walls or rocks at relatively low heights without ropes or harnesses but with a crashpad or other climbers as spotters for safety. Instead of long, strictly vertical climbs, proponents look for technically challenging and difficult problems and routes.
Top rope climbing starts with a safety rope already connected to the top of the route. That limits the distance a climber can fall before the rope catches them, making it ideal for beginners.
Sport climbing involves ropes and harnesses with permanent bolts attached to the surface throughout the route. These have been placed by previous climbers or associations that maintain that area.
Traditional (trad) climbing is similar to sport climbing in that it uses safety ropes and harnesses, and the lead climber places temporary and removable protection devices as they climb. After they complete the route or section, the second climber (also called the belayer) follows and removes the devices.
The largest in all of Ohio
The Mad River Gorge is the largest climbing area in all of Ohio. It covers 91 acres along the Mad River, with 312 climbing routes documented, including sport, traditional, bouldering, and top roping. Previously private land, it was the site of frequent illegal climbing by those who couldn’t resist the great grip and attraction of the 50-foot dolomite cliffs.
It became open to the public in 2017 when the Ohio Climbers Coalition in partnership with the Access Fund and the Clark County Park District, purchased the property. Known officially as the Mad River Gorge & Nature Preserve, the area is operated and managed by the CCPD.
After extensive cleanup, the park now welcomes climbers to the south side of the river. Plans include developing the northside as well, adding even more opportunities.
Veterans Park in nearby Springfield offers additional bouldering opportunities close to downtown. A few miles south near Yellow Springs, John Bryan State Park has several approved and legal climbing areas.
The conclusion is that you don’t have to go very far to have a wide range of climbing experiences.
Keep it safe
There is always some risk of injury anytime you’re off the ground. Knowing safety procedures and processes is key. One of the first rules is don’t go alone. Second, know and be familiar with your equipment and limits. Practicing and getting experience in a controlled setting is a good idea.
There are a variety of indoor climbing opportunities around, ranging from dedicated gyms to walls at rec centers, to get started. Additionally, the National Trails Parks and Recreation Department offers an age-appropriate introduction to climbing classes throughout the year.
While you might not get wide-ranging vistas from the top of your climb in Ohio, you will get an elevated perspective and a sense of personal accomplishment that keeps experienced and first-time climbers coming back.
Devin Meister is a local outdoors and wildlife enthusiast and has a blog called “Average Guy Outdoors.” He is an Ohio University graduate. Reach him at meister.devin@gmail.com.
UPCOMING EVENTS
Coffee & Climb at MRG with the OCC
10 a.m.–2 p.m. July 19 at Mad River Gorge & Nature Preserve, 2710 Dayton Springfield Road in Springfield.
NTPRD classes
Intro to Rock Climbing, ages 18 and older, Aug. 4 to Aug. 9
Intro to Rock Climbing, ages 12-17, Aug. 4 to Aug. 6
Intro to Rock Climbing, ages 8 -11, Aug. 4 to Aug. 5
Great Miami River
The annual Clean Sweep of the Great Miami River is set to start on the northernmost sections this weekend. For more information and to participate visit cleansweepofthegreatmiamiriver.org/locations.
About the Author
