On the roses, you can prevent future black spot infection on the new growth. You must have fungicides on the leaf surface before infection occurs. Therefore, as the new growth emerges, use your fungicides.
Since the peonies won’t put on new growth again this year, you have to live with them.
Additionally, remove any infected rose leaves on the ground that serve as a source of inoculum for future infections. I know this isn’t easy, but try to get as many infected leaves out of the area as possible.
Even though we have had cool temperatures and overcast skies, new plants may still need watering. Their roots are not established, and high winds will dry them out quickly. The rest of the soil is damp, but the new plant roots are dry.
One group of plants that don’t mind the weather is weeds. All the weeds are thriving, making it hard to keep up. My mantra – don’t let them go to seed!
I had a major problem in a section of my vegetable garden with Galinsoga. It was everywhere. I have worked hard for the last several years on removing them as soon as they emerge. This has dramatically reduced the population.
I also use straw or grass clippings in the garden as mulch to reduce future populations from thriving. I have also switched to no-till gardening as much as possible.
No-till gardening requires effort, but the rewards are high. Not tilling the garden leads to good soil structure. It also keeps weed seeds from being disturbed, which leads to germination.
No-till gardening takes a bit of work. You can’t till the soil; you leave it undisturbed. Therefore, you must take a few extra steps.
First, the beds should be just wide enough so that you can reach into them to harvest. They should be four feet wide. Your reach should be able to go to the middle of the bed. Once you develop good soil structure, you don’t want to step on it and compact it.
It takes a few years to get beds developed as well. I added organic matter (compost, peat moss, composted manure) over several years to build the soil. I work this in with a pitchfork, allowing it to decompose over time.
When you plant, the planting area is easily worked with a soil knife. I stay out of the actual bed itself to keep the soil structure intact.
You also must rotate your crops to prevent pest problems from building up. I had my tomatoes in one bed last year, and they’re in a different bed this year.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions about using the no-till technique in your vegetable garden. I am happy to help.
You also must be sure to rotate your crops to prevent pest problems from building up. I had my tomatoes in one bed last year, and they’re in a different bed this year.
Contact me if you have any questions about using the no-till technique in your vegetable garden. I am happy to help.
Pamela Corle-Bennett is the state master gardener volunteer coordinator and horticulture educator for Ohio State University Extension. Contact her by email at bennett.27@osu.edu.
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