I love pruning because it is a challenge. Determining which branches to leave and which to cut leads to many decisions. It’s not for the weak of heart! Rest assured, however, if you make the proper cuts on the branches, you won’t kill a plant.
The fundamentals of pruning begin with knowing what to cut. Start by removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches. Once these are removed, step back to see what you are working with and determine your goals.
In newly-planted shade and flowering trees, the goal is to develop a good structural base for the tree as it grows. Prune while they are small to develop a scaffolding structure of branches. Ensure there is a strong central leader.
At times, certain tree species develop double leaders or two topmost branches. These leaders continue to grow and compete and stay the same height. The problem is that the branch angle of the two leaders is weak and eventually breaks or splits in a good windstorm.
This can be prevented by pruning one of the leaders about halfway back so that it doesn’t compete with the one you want to become the central leader. Pines and spruces are notorious for having double leaders that break easily in an ice or windstorm,
Another important fundamental is not to remove more than one-third of a plant in a season. This only encourages additional new growth as the plant sends out more growth to survive. Do what you can in one season, and it will take a couple of years if the plant is extremely overgrown.
Finally, make proper pruning cuts. Look for an outward-facing bud on the branch and cut back to just above the bud. By doing this, you are directing the growth of that branch. If you cut between the buds, you get a lot of woody growth from the end of the cut.
Pruning tree branches is a little more technical, but there are a lot of good resources online to show where to make a proper cut. Do not cut flush to the trunk, and do not leave a stub.
Branches seal or compartmentalize the wound when the cut is made in the right spot – the branch bark collar. See the photo to locate the collar. This is where the wound seals properly, and decay won’t go beyond this area, into the main trunk of the tree, leading to structural integrity problems.
The next few weeks will focus on pruning, including rejuvenating shrubs, pruning fruits and more. Stay tuned.
Pamela Corle-Bennett is the state master gardener volunteer coordinator and horticulture educator for Ohio State University Extension. Contact her by email at bennett.27@osu.edu.
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