FIRST LOOK

The Patriot Steakhouse & Tavern

2098 S. Alex Road, West Carrollton (just off Ohio 725 west of I-75 near the Dayton Mall)

(937) 247-0717

www.patriotsteakhouse.com

Open daily for dinner

The Patriot Steakhouse & Tavern has been open for only a few weeks, and its co-owner and founder, Greg Carter, said the restaurant is in “soft-opening” mode and won’t be up to full strength and staffing until the end of November.

But the restaurant is showing promise in its infancy.

The 160-seat steakhouse is the second location for the The Patriot Steakhouse, which opened its flagship restaurant in January 2011 in Lebanon. It’s located in the former Grub Steak restaurant, which closed in February 2013 after being in business for 50 years — the first 45 in Dayton, and the last five in the West Carrollton location. Carter made a few enhancements, including a couple of flat-screen televisions, but for the most part, this is a no-frills place that puts the emphasis on the food on the plate.

Carter is a restaurant veteran, having worked in the industry for three decades, including stints with the Longhorn Steakhouse and Shells Seafood restaurant chains. He opened the Lebanon steakhouse, he said at the time, in part because, “It’s more fun to run your own restaurant than to run someone else’s.”

Carter has designs for two other restaurant concepts, a Patriot Steakhouse “Seaside Grille & Grog” and “Grille & Tap Room.

The focus of the West Carrollton restaurant is, of course, steaks, and there are plenty to choose from: Center-Cut Filet, Porterhouse, T-Bone, New York Strip and Ribeye, some available in various grades or origin that include Choice, Angus or Prime. Prices fluctuate based on market price, and a note on the menu insert lets diners know that the wholesale price of choice-grade beef is just now coming down from record-high levels.

On a “first-look” visit, my colleague Amelia Robinson and I tried the 8-ounce Filet (market price, which was $33 on this night), described on the menu as the Patriot’s “single most popular steak,” and it was tender, flavorful, and cooked to the requested doneness.

Carter offers a distinctive preparation for prime rib, on the menu as “Seared Prime.” The whole rib loin is roasted to “rare” to keep it tender, cooled and cut into steaks, then seared to order and served with beef au jus. Because of its preparation, diners who order the Seared Prime rare or medium rare may encounter a cool center. Our version — 14 ounces for $25 — was flavorful and satisfying, the the restaurant gets the “jus” right.

Impressive sides included Sauteed Asparagus, properly cooked to al-dente, and a Caesar Salad, with the right balance of citrus and Parmesan.

Those who enjoy a little variety on their plate may want to explore entrees such as Shrimp Trio ($25) or Scallop Trio ($34), consisting of the seafood prepared in three different cooking styles: grilled, sauteed and deep-fried; or the Pork Trio ($20), with a Grilled Pork Chop, a portion of Grilled Pork Tenderloin and a serving of Barbecued Babyback Ribs.

The wines-by-the-glass list includes Simi Sauvignon Blanc ($7) and a Michel Chapoutier Cotes-du-Rhone red ($5.50). The restaurant offers a tidy and impressive list of bourbons, including the Wild Turkey 101 ($5.50 for a Manhattan).